Hair loss and brittle nails: understanding the hair cycle
Hair loss: understanding before treating.
6 min. read
Cellular beauty · Journal
Hair loss: understand before you act
Losing your hair is often experienced as inevitable. It rarely is. In the vast majority of cases, hair loss has an identifiable cause, and a cause you can act on.
The hair cycle: every hair has its own clock
A hair does not grow indefinitely. It goes through a life cycle in three distinct phases, controlled by precise hormonal, nutritional and cellular signals. Understanding this cycle means understanding where hair loss comes from, and why some approaches take several months before giving results.
The anagen phase is the active growth phase: the hair follicle produces the hair fibre at a rate of about 1 cm per month. It lasts from 2 to 7 years depending on genetics and nutritional status. At any given time, it concerns 85% of our hair. This is the phase we seek to prolong and strengthen.
The catagen phase is a short transition phase (2 to 3 weeks) during which the follicle shrinks and stops producing. It concerns about 1 to 2% of hairs at any given time.
The telogen phase is the resting phase: the follicle is inactive for 3 to 4 months, then the hair falls out naturally to make way for a new anagen cycle. It normally concerns 13 to 15% of hairs. Losing 50 to 100 hairs a day is therefore perfectly physiological: it is the normal consequence of this rotation.
Abnormal hair loss occurs when too many follicles switch to the telogen phase at the same time, or when the anagen phase gradually shortens. In both cases, the cause can almost always be identified.
Key figures of the hair cycle
Clinical study
Nutritional factors and hair loss
This reference study established the direct link between serum ferritin levels and hair loss in women. The results show that a ferritin level below 40 µg/L: although considered “within normal range” by some laboratories: is enough to significantly weaken the hair follicle and reduce the duration of the anagen phase.
What this means in practice: iron deficiency is now recognised as the leading cause of hair loss in women of childbearing age. A ferritin test is the first test to ask for.
“Hair loss is almost never inevitable. Most often it is a signal: nutritional, hormonal or emotional, sent by the body.”
The real causes: five mechanisms that trigger abnormal hair loss
The vast majority of hair loss is described as reactive or diffuse: that is, it has an identifiable cause and is potentially reversible once that cause is corrected. Here are the five most common mechanisms.
The most common causes of hair loss
What the hair follicle needs to function
The hair follicle is one of the structures with the fastest cell renewal in the body. It consumes a considerable amount of energy and nutrients to maintain its anagen phase. In the event of restriction: whether dietary, digestive or linked to a specific deficiency, the follicle is one of the first organs the body sacrifices in favour of vital functions.
Essential nutrients for hair health
“The hair follicle is a faithful indicator of overall nutritional status. What you see falling out in the shower often reflects what your body is no longer receiving.”
Hair & Nail Regenesis: an integrated approach to keratinisation
Hair & Nail Regenesis (No. 05) was formulated around two families of ingredients: structural substrates (keratin, sulphur amino acids, silicon) and enzymatic cofactors (zinc, selenium, iron, B vitamins), several of which have authorised health claims, listed below.
Key ingredients · Mechanisms of action
| Ingredient | Role |
|---|---|
| Cynatine® HNS · 500 mg | A patented keratin hydrolysate. Provides amino acids and peptides that make up the hair fibre. A scientific study on this ingredient (Beer et al., 2014, 48 women analysed, 500 mg/day) reports a 46.6% reduction in hair loss at 90 days compared with the start of the study. This research describes study observations; keratin is not the subject of an authorised health claim and individual results vary. |
| L-cysteine · 200 mg | The main sulphur amino acid in keratin. Forms the disulphide bonds that give hair its cohesion and mechanical strength. A precursor in the synthesis of glutathione, a compound studied for its role in the cell's antioxidant defences. |
| Bamboo extract · 150 mg (including 112 mg of silicon) | A concentrated source of silicon. Described as being involved in the perifollicular extracellular matrix; the available research concerns the strength of the fibre, the strength of nails and hair elasticity. No authorised health claim to date. |
| L-methionine · 50 mg | An essential sulphur amino acid, precursor of cysteine. Involved in protein synthesis and in the cellular methylation that regulates the expression of genes involved in the hair cycle. |
| Zinc 10 mg · Selenium 50 µg · Iron 7 mg | A fundamental mineral trio: zinc and selenium contribute to the maintenance of normal hair, selenium contributes to the protection of cells from oxidative stress, iron contributes to the reduction of tiredness and fatigue and supports cell proliferation in the matrix. A balanced combination to cover the three deficiencies most often involved in hair loss. |
| Vitamins B, A and E | Vitamin B9 (folate) contributes to the process of cell division and to the reduction of tiredness and fatigue. Vitamin A contributes to the maintenance of normal skin and regulates keratinocyte differentiation. Vitamin E contributes to the protection of cells from oxidative stress. |
Dosage and length of course
3 capsules per day, preferably in the morning or spread over the day at mealtimes. A course should last at least 2 to 3 months: a timeframe dictated by the hair cycle itself: a hair entering the anagen phase grows by about 1 cm per month and only becomes visible after 6 to 12 weeks of growth, whatever approach is chosen. Patience is part of the process.
Discover Hair & Nail Regenesis
Precautions. Plant-based capsule. Contains vitamin A: not recommended for pregnant women. Contains iron: if you have low ferritin or heavy periods, ask a healthcare professional for advice before combining several sources of iron.
Depending on your profile: the other formulas in the range
Depending on the context: proven iron deficiency, postpartum effluvium, a background of chronic stress, other BIOLOGYST formulas target different mechanisms. The choice is ideally made with a healthcare professional, based on a check-up.
Complementary combinations by profile
“Healthy hair is built over several months. Supporting hair during shedding means supporting the follicle, not forcing it.”
Frequently asked questions
How many hairs do we normally lose per day?
Losing 50 to 100 hairs a day is perfectly physiological. At any given time, 13 to 15% of hairs are in the telogen (resting) phase and fall out naturally to make way for a new growth cycle.
Why does hair loss occur 2 to 3 months after a shock?
Because a triggering event (intense stress, fever, childbirth, surgery, a severe diet) pushes up to 30% of hairs into the telogen phase at the same time. This phase lasts 3 to 4 months: hair loss therefore only becomes visible 2 to 3 months later, which makes the link hard to establish.
What ferritin level is associated with hair loss?
Below 40 µg/L, the hair follicle is weakened even when haemoglobin is normal (Rushton, 2002). Iron deficiency affects 30 to 50% of women of childbearing age: a ferritin test is the first test to ask for in the case of diffuse hair loss.
How long does it take to see a result?
Allow at least 2 to 3 months, whatever approach is chosen. A hair in the anagen phase grows by about 1 cm per month and only becomes visible after 6 to 12 weeks of growth: this timeframe is set by the hair cycle itself. If hair loss persists, the advice of a healthcare professional remains the first step.
Which nutrients are involved in keratin synthesis?
Keratin makes up 90% of the hair fibre. Its synthesis requires sulphur amino acids (cysteine, methionine), zinc, selenium, silicon and B vitamins (biotin, B9, B12). Further analyses of ingredients are available in the active ingredients blog and in the BIOLOGYST Journal.
BIOLOGYST. Food supplements should not be used as a substitute for a varied and balanced diet and a healthy lifestyle. Do not exceed the recommended daily dose. Keep out of the reach of young children. This article is for information only and does not replace medical advice: if hair loss persists, consult a healthcare professional.
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